How Jacques Pépin Uses Up Any Leftover Cheese

Every January, I inevitably find myself with a cheese drawer full of odds and ends. A nub of a goat cheese log, the last sliver of a Gouda wedge, and the remnants of the Humboldt Fog I splurged on are just hanging in limbo, getting ripe by the day.

Even though I only buy cheese I love, this graveyard of my holiday entertaining spreads is surprisingly difficult to use up. Each piece is too small to add to another cheese board, and there isn’t enough to combine them into something like a mac and cheese. Luckily, one legendary chef has a delicious solution that’s perfect for a party or solo snacking.

You may know Jacques Pepin as the author of over 30 cookbooks, a television host, a close friend of fellow gourmand Julia Child, or a culinary educator, but he’s also an expert in minimizing food waste. Throughout his career, the French chef has placed a great emphasis on both budget-friendly cooking and making use of every ingredient and scrap you have on hand, including the dregs of your cheese drawer.

When Pépin has several pieces of cheese lingering in his refrigerator, he’s likely making one thing: fromage fort. This French cheese spread stars a very short list of ingredients, with wine and cheese as the primary players. It’s punchy, creamy, customizable, and, as Pépin points out, you can use it for much than just a snack.

In a clip on social media, the chef demonstrates how to make fromage fort, explaining that “I put it on top of soup, I put it in pasta, I put it in gratin… I put it in gougeres,” in addition to simply spreading it on toast, the most traditional way of enjoying the dish.

We’re lucky enough to have Jacques Pépin’s published recipe for strong cheesebut this is a dish that you can quickly learn to make by memory without step-by-step directions. To start, you can use any cheese you want in the spread; there are no specific requirements. If you have eight different cheeses you need to use, they’re all welcome. Part of the beauty of fromage fort is that it won’t taste exactly the same every time you make it, because each batch uses a different base.

In addition to cheese, this spread stars dry white wine and garlic, components that add aromatic and tangy notes to balance out the richness of the dairy. Assemble your cheese scraps, white wine, peeled garlic cloves, and (optionally) black pepper, and you’re ready to whip up fromage fort.

Pépin recommends removing the rind from each piece of cheese, if applicable, and cutting the cheese into large chunks; this will make it easier to blend. Then everything comes together in the food processor. Pulse the garlic in a food processor first — Pépin likes four cloves, but notes that you can use as much or as little garlic as you’d like — then gradually add the cubes of any firmer cheeses. Keep your soft cheeses on the side for now.

Once the hard cheeses have been finely minced, pour in about one-fourth cup of white wine while running the food processor. Next, add the soft cheese gradually while continuing to blend. Pulse everything in the food processor until it comes together with a smooth consistency. The only thing left to do is taste and adjust.

Check the cheese spread’s thickness and blend in a little wine if needed. You’re aiming for something that’s easily spreadable and smooth yet still holds its shape. If desired, add freshly ground black pepper and taste the mixture to see if it needs salt. Per Pépin, “Usually you don’t need salt because the cheese is salty enough, but it’s always good to taste it.”

The result is a funky, rich, and flavorful cheese spread that’s versatile than you might expect. And if a wine-infused cheese spread you can toss on top of toast or pasta doesn’t already sound great enough, Pépin delivers one piece of good news: you can freeze any leftover fromage fort for later use, so your cheese definitely won’t go to waste.